How difficult to install?
Although this might not be as simple as installing a sprinkler system, a central vacuum system is really quite easy to install. It takes one day or less for most homes.

What is the cost?
To do it yourself and depending on the number of inlets and quality of vacuum the cost will be anywhere from $400 to sometimes $2000. For a professional installation you will need to contact a local installer.

When to install?
The pipes and wiring are ran before the drywall is up and as the electrician is finishing. Use temporary plaster guards to protect the interior of the pipe at the mounted backing plates while construction is finished.

Existing home installation?
These jobs can be quite easy!. Central vacuum systems often use closets, soffits, return air ducts, pantries, basements, stud bays, and any other hidden spaces to run the pipe and wire.

How many inlet ports?
A typical home needs approximately one inlet for every 600 square feet of living space. One inlet in a hallway can access two or three bedrooms. Some modern homes only need one inlet in a central area to cover 1400 square feet, or so.

Where do inlets go?
Place all inlets away from doors, furniture, front door entry, or other inconvenient or aesthetic locations. The small 2x4” hinged valves are put at the same height as the electrical outlets in the home.

Automatic dustpans?
There are really convenient vacuum ports that turn on with your foot. Broom sweep debris over to the floor level vacuum inlet in a kitchen cabinet, for instance, and suction all the mess away without ever bending over. These inlets are the hardest to install but can bring a lot of satisfaction.

Where do I get installation supplies?
All central vacuums use the same supplies for the rough-in. Only the Hose Attachment Kits and Vacuum Units are different. MD allows you to build your own installation kit easily so you get everything you need for your unique home and desires. Supplies can be bought through dealers or online.

Multiple users?
There is only one operator at a time for a vacuum unit. Installation of multiple power units is only appropriate for mandatory simultaneous users.

How to cut and glue the PVC?
To avoid future clogs, cut the pipe with a tubing cutter (not a hacksaw!) and make sure to remove all edge cut burrs. Glue the male end only of the joint to prevent creating ridges inside the pipe connection.

Routing and connecting pipe runs?
Use sweep elbows throughout the pipe run (but use a tight elbow at the inlet valve) and always use (2) 45-degree bends for any offset jogs instead of (2) 90-degree bends. The main runs can be under the house or above in the attic. Minimize the amount of fittings whenever possible.

Wiring the system?
110 volt inlets (Supervalves or Electravalves) connect the 24-volt activation switch wire for the suction and a 110 volt connection in order to power an electric power brush nozzle. An electrician can easily connect these 110 volt wires to a nearby electric outlet. The two conductor 20-gauge (18-gauge if over 150ft) low voltage wire should be strapped or taped to the pipe every five feet all the way back to the power unit. It can be spliced to other runs along the way. Inlets without 110 volts only have the low voltage wire.

Penetrating the firewall?
Check local building codes regarding the necessity of a steel pipe or fire collar to penetrate the firewall if the power unit is located in the garage.

Exhausting necessary?
Check for manufacturer recommendations concerning exhaust venting. For dirty exhaust units, put the unit in an area which will not cause an exhaust mess. Systems with adequate filtration will not need venting.

Convert Existing Valves to 110 volt?
Yes you can add 110 volts to vacuum ports that have plastic backing plates. Run ElectraValve rough-in wire through an opening in the backing plate and connect it to a new ElectraValve faceplate. Connect the other end of the wire to a nearby existing electrical junction in the home’s construction.